Sipsey Wilderness, Bankhead National Forest

Just north of the lake, the Sipsey Wilderness inside Bankhead National Forest is the wildest country in Alabama and looks nothing like what most people expect from the state. Sandstone canyons, hemlock and old-growth hardwood, and enough seasonal waterfalls to have earned it the nickname “Land of a Thousand Waterfalls.” The Sipsey Fork — the river that eventually feeds Smith Lake — runs through the middle of it, and the trails along it are the most rewarding. Trailhead 209 at Thompson Creek is the usual starting point for a first visit, with a manageable out-and-back that takes in waterfalls and creek crossings. Longer loops are there if you want them, but this is genuine wilderness: trails are marked lightly, there’s no phone signal, and creek crossings can be knee-deep after rain. Go in spring for the strongest waterfalls and wildflowers, or in late October for the colour. Take a paper map or a downloaded offline one, wear boots you don’t mind soaking, and start early — it’s a long enough drive that you’ll want the full day. Ask us for the current trail conditions before you set off.